STUDY TRIP TO HELSINKI, STOCKHOLM AND TURKU
13-18 October, 2007
I. DAY ONE HELSINKI, VISIT TO HALOSENNIEMI AND HVITTRASK
“When Helsinki took on the role of national Capital, an elegant frame work was created for its centre by the general town plan draw up by Johan Albrecht Ehrenstrom in 1817.” Salokorpi, 40
1. HVITTRASK
As we arrived to Helsinki we took a bus tour outside the city to a rural location that inspired the pioneer’s work of the Finnish National Romanticism emblematic architects Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren and Eliel Saarinen, who lived and work at the Hvttrask.
Hvttrask is a wooded house a great building where work of masonry and timber create its very unique character. Started in 1901 the first part consisted in a lighten spacious studio and workshop, carrying as a dwelling with simple style reminiscent of Karelian vernacular buildings then as the building developed it became a multi leveled house with several staircases, various spaces and hand painted stuccos, every room breath history and make us recall the fight for independency, this house also served as boyhood home to Eero Saarinen, who made his reputation in United States and designed such buildings and monuments as the Getaway Arch in St. Louis Missouri.
2.HALOSENNIEMI
As for the Halosenniemi house as well was dwelling and the studio of painter Pekka Halonen (1865-1933) build it in a severe National Romantic style and situated on the lake Tuusula (ca 30 Km from Helsinki) as we walk thought the spacious atelier and see the nature from the wall to wall windows facing the lake and the forest we understand how two extremes of the National Romantic style converge in this building. Openness, lightness, and the nobility of the materials is visible, naked timbers tainted with tar, stoned based, and small rooms and a fire place which are ornamented with forged iron doors with different illustrations of the rural life i.e. a woman cuddling by the fire, or a pig with its piglets. Right by the water is located the sauna which was used as dwelling for about a year and half before the main house was ready to be used.
3. KIASMA
Kiasma is a lively cultural centre and meeting place for the contemporary and conceptual artist of Finland. Kiama has clearly established its position in the culture landscape of both Helsinki and Finland at large as one of the most interesting places for contemporary arts.
As we walked the city the history unfolds at every step, the Sibelius monument, the Olimpic stadium, the senate square and the esplanade are some of the obligatory places to visit, convening both modern and classical architecture from the national romantic period.
II. DAY TWO HELSINKI, VIST TO SENATE SQUARE AND THE ESPLANADI STREET.
As we walk the city we see widows, and gates that invite us to live the city in a more intimate way. Some of us look up and down to the facades and several faces of buildings that the city offers. We taste the moment to appreciate the flavour of history in the faces of the different buildings that breathe their own story, styles through the century tell their secrets and we as visitors felt enchanted by the perfect mix of modernism and 457 years of history invested on the architecture of this Nordic European Capital.
Helsinki was founded by Swedish King Gustav Vasa in 1550 as the town of Helisgfors, but in 1640 the city was moved from the original location at the mouth of the river Vantaa, later on the Sea-Fortress of Sveaborg or Suomenlinna was erected as the fortification which construction started in 1748, a deep history, an air of aristocracy and a modern western-eastern style had mixed together and made Helsinki the perfect place to start our visit (see image I Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square with Streetcar)
1. THE SENATE SQUARE;
C. L. Engel designed its main architectural piece in the heart of Helsinki, in the Senate square is resting the Lutheran Cathedral (Church of Nicholas, 1818-1852) Engel start working on this project in 1818 until his dead in 1840, and was completed in 1852, also the main university building was designed entirely by Engel, inaugurated in 1832, and the Palace of the Council of State was completed in 1822, and the University library was completed in 1844, having a impressive hall and a central patio where you can see the glass ceilings that shower with light the whole interior building.(see Image 2 and Image 3 National Library interior)
2. THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE
a. “Parliament House stands by itself on Arcadia Hill, but this was not the intention of the town planners or the architect. Their idea was for a group of public buildings to form a new Independence Square, paralleling the old Senate Square. Nothing came of this plan, however.”
(see Image 4, parliament Interior)
The house of parliament was designed by J.S. Sirén (1889-1961) from the firm Borg-Sirén-Aberg the proposal was called “Oratoribus” –for the Orators- the building finally was constructed under his command in 1926-1931, inaugurated on march 1931.
His impressive and severe façade is a monument for the independence and democracy, with his reddish Kalvola granite and 14 columns with Corinthian capitals, the building is an example of the architecture of the 1920’s, (see image 5, detail from the façade) as for the interiors the décor severely shows the purposes of this building an ascetic yet inviting interior welcomed us in our visit.
3. E. SAARINEN, RAILWAY STATION,
yet the first railway station was planed by Swedish architect Carl Albert Edelfelt in 1860, the up growing city demanded a bigger station, Eliel Saarinen presented a pure National Romantic style where titanic sculptures in granite hold glowing lamps at the central station gates and a impotent clock-tower timely guide us to the city, several renovations and annex had being added to the station as the Helsinki Metro subway station, and the Rautatientori as well the Kauppakuja shopping centre.
4. THE ESPLANADI
Esplanadipuisto which runs between the strees Pohjoisesplandi and Etalasesplanadi, is a great boulevard that runs from the harbour and fish market at Kauppatori to the main shopping district street named after General Mannerheim (Mannerheimintie) located in the park is the Café Kappeli where most of the aristocratic and intellectual elite used to gather. The buildings around are XIX century Neo-Renaissance. As we walk over the Esplanade, we become part of it, it gives us an inside of the cultural atmosphere and rich history of the city and it’s a view of earlier times throw the several sculptures commemorating poetry, history and politics as such as Eino Leino (image 8), and the imponent 8-meter high monument of Johan Ludving Runeberg author of the national theme which is hold by a Muse covered by a bear fur the hymn is written in Swedish 'Vårt land' which is the first poem in “Fänrik Ståls Sägner” (image 7 and image 9)
a. Vårt land
Vårt land, vårt land, vårt fosterland,
Ljud högt, o dyra ord!
Ej lyfts en höjd mot himlens rand,
Ej sänks en dal, ej sköljs en strand,
Mer älskad än vår bygd i nord,
Än våra fäders jord.
Vårt land är fattigt, skall så bli
För den, som guld begär,
En främling far oss stolt förbi;
Men detta landet älska vi,
För oss med moar, fjäll och skär
Ett guldland dock det är.
III. DAY THREE STOCKHOLM
1. THE CITY HALL, Swedish national romanticism. (see image 12)
The building was designed by Ragnar Ostberg (1866-1945) and was build between 1911 and 1923, this is an impressive construction with about 8 million red bricks the most characteristic space is the Blue Hall –Bla Hallen, that exhibits its red bricks walls instead of the blue planned. In the 106 meter tall tower we have the 3 Crowns national symbol of Sweden.
2. GAMLA STAN, The old town of Stockholm; (see image 11)
Staden Mellan Broarna (the city between the Bridges) is the old town of the city of Stockholm and is located at the Island of Stadsholmen. Combined architecture is found in this historical place, where haunted alleys and wandering streets recall the history of the city. For example Marten Trotzigs Grand by No 81; this is Stockholm’s narrowest lane, as well in the old town we found the Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), and the Museum Tre Kronor which is located in the palace basement and features the foundations of the 13th Century defense system.
3. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF STOCKHOLM
This building holds the larges collection of art history dated back to the 16th century. The collections begin with Gustav Vasa’s collection of Gripsholm Castle, as well when Queen Christina abdicated in 1654, she brought along with her a number of paintings of Italian Renaissance. Also Carl Gustaf Tessin in 1740 bought contemporary French art. But it was just until 1866 that the present building was inaugurated and named as the National Museum, designed by German architect Friedrich August Stüler.
IV. DAY FORTH STOCKHOLM
1. DROTTNINGHOLM PALACE
The Queen’s Island Palace was ordered by King Johan
III this first one burned and in 1662 Nicodemus Tessin “The Elder” and his son “The Younger” constructed in a early Baroque style; nowadays this is the official residence of the Royal family. (see image 10)
2. DROTTININGHOLM COURT THEATRE
This is the world’s only 18th century theatre still in use, with its original stage machinery and sets worked as a perfect time machine where we find inspiration and leisure. The royal couple –Adolf Fredrik and Queen Lovisa Ulrika- entrusted to architect Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz, on 12 June 1766 Adelcrantz presented the building to the Royal couple. No ostentation or gilt is shown but as we go into the theater we discover marble painted canvas as walls, a falls perspective on the stage and a whole harmony and balance that transport us back in time:
a. “Aldelcrantz’ interior, combining artistic playfulness with strict logic, deceptive illusion with a sense of profound meaning, and aristocratic refinement with great simplicity, provides a kind of programme for theatres in all periods. Not merely artistically, but also humnaistically” Agne Beijer
3. KINA SLOTT,THE CHINESE PAVILION (see image 13)
Swedish Rococo As well designed by architect Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz (1716-1796) as a birthday present for Queen Lovisa Ulrika in 1753, it is located down south of the English gardens at the Queen’s Island Palace, it was inspired by Cantonese and Chinese design. Also we found “La Confidence” (see image 14) as secret dining room with an interesting shelf-elevator where the food was placed. As we go back to the Palace, we walked the French gardens with their severe geometrical lines and its false perspective.
V. DAY FIFTH, TURKU AND THE MIDDLE AGES
Turku is the former Capital of Finland; burned several times it is not strange to find archeological discoveries, even though the acid soil and humid conditions are not favorable for preserved ruins. Running back in time to the 13th Century Turku was an important yet commercial join for Swedish Kingdom; its name comes from an Old East Slavic word, tǔrgǔ, meaning "market place". But After the Finnish War when Sweden ceded Finland to Imperial Russia, Turku became the official capital but not for long since the Emperor Alexander felt that Turku was too far from Russia and to close to Sweden interests, then finally in 1827 with the Great Fire of Turku the city was destroyed and redesigned by Carl Ludvig Engel.
1. TURKU CATHEDRAL (see image 15)
this is the Lutheran Cathedral and a National Sanctuary. The cathedral has 700 years, situated north of the Aurajoki it was build in 1300 and consecrated to the “Saint Vierge” and Saint “Henri”. The cathedral has undergone through many changes, the east wall was located farther on and the ceilings were shorter. As the turn of the XIV century a new chorus was constructed. In 1827 the flames consume most of the building and the building was reconstructed up to 101 meters over the see level and now is the dominant building of the city. In the interior the transfiguration of Christ is the work of Fredrik Westin Swedish artist. But the walls and frescos depict two important events in the history of Finland, the beginnings of Christianism and the delivery of the first New Testament translated to Finnish by Mikael Agricola to the Swedish King Gustave Vasa.
2. TURKU CASTLE (see images 16-17)
Turku castle is the largest surviving medieval building in Finland, and one of the largest medieval castles in Scandinavia. The layout of the castle consists of the Medieval keep (päälinna) and Renaissance bailey (esilinna). The keep consists of a square fort with two square gateway towers; the thickness of the walls at the base is some 5 m. In the Middle Ages the castle was surrounded by a moat conjoining on the River Aurajoki, the castle effectively lying on an island. The keep was completed in the early 1400s. The construction of the bailey was begun in the late 15th century and finished in the 16th. The bailey is not as heavily fortified as the keep, but it has several Turrets. The Renaissance construction work included heavy modification of nearly all the rooms in the older medieval part of the castle. Since the Renaissance no additions have been made to the castle. We can see how the Renaissance uses the same materials and spaces and still in balance with the rest of the building, also it’s worth noting the spaciousness and lightness of this style which is opposite to the heavy walls and darkness of the Middle Ages castles.
3. THE LUOSTARIMAKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM
The Luostarimaki museums is a small village reconstructed as an original pre-industrial environment where we can experience the different ‘ateliers” or handicrafts houses, an experience that transport us to the middle ages, from the wooden houses, the stone dirt roads, the grass roofs, and the smoke saunas integrated to the traditional buildings.
VI. SOURCES
Beiger Agne, DROTTNINGHOLMS SLOTTSTEATER, Catalogue
Salokorpi, Asko; Okkonen, Ilpo; HELSINGIN KASVOT; kirjapaino Osakeyhtio Kaleva, Oulu 1999
Runeberg, Johan Ludvig; Vårt land,(1848-1860), Fänrik Ståls sägner, runeberg organization, http://runeberg.org/fstal/1a.html
About the Parliament House of Helsinki, http://web.eduskunta.fi/Resource.phx/parliament/aboutparliament/presentation/parliamenthouse.htx#A%20work%20of%20art%20in%20the%20centre%20of%20the%20city
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